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doug43
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Nov-30-2007 11:42 |
10730 |
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In 1984 installed 3 1/4" tile in bath. At that time, was HH200.
It is a beige color (sample available). Need to replace about a 3' x 4' section. How can I find this tile & this size?
Thanks, Doug43
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Waylon
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Nov-30-2007 04:41 |
10729 |
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I am tiling my back splash in my kitchen and I will have to extend my electrical outlets. I have purchased these little box extenders, but I don't know how they are going to work out. I can't see how to use them, and I am allready tling and need to figure this out. I am desperate and feeling confused. Please help me, thanks.
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shaneo
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Nov-29-2007 23:16 |
10728 |
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This rocks ! i purchased a hundred year old house and am redoing the bathroom. I've replaced a claw tub with a new soaker and would like to put stone or ceramic tile for a tub surround. The wall is plaster and lath and there's a window .Can i tile straight on the wall ? And what can i do to save the window? Glass blocks don't thrill me! thank you!
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sir_loin
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Nov-29-2007 15:32 |
10727 |
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ONYX TILE
Ok, So i've been tiling for a few years, and I thought I'd seen everything. but while tiling a hallway for a client, he brings out these 12x12 slabs of onyx he wants to use for his bathroom floor.
I didn't even realise you could get onyx this big, let alone use it for tiling applications, so my question is...wtf? how do i do it? the internet hasn't been much help. what sort of thinset should i use to make sure there's no bleeding through? what sort of sealant should i use as well? i'm assuming non sanded grout is a given. He paid something like 25 bucks per tile so i want to do this right.
help!
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ZONIES2000
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Nov-29-2007 09:20 |
10726 |
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How do I strip old finish (shine and sealers) off of satillo tile?
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Browning
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Nov-29-2007 01:01 |
10725 |
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In a swimming pool dressing room environment (with lots of moisture and heavy duty wear) how should one apply mosaic wall and base tile to concrete block that has been previously painted with an alkyd enamel block filler and semi-gloss paint? What surface preparation should be used, with what type of setting agents? Thank-you
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GregF
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Nov-27-2007 15:09 |
10724 |
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Hi Tileman
My builders have fitted a new toilet, but not screwed it down or caulked it. Do I need to drill through the holes in the toilet to fix it down or can I just silicone it to the tiled floor. I am nervous about drilling through the toilet holes into the floor for fear of cracking the toilet, cracking the tiles or going through a pipe under the floor. I'm also not sure I'll get a great fixing. The tiles are limestone and the sub floor is plywood.
Thanks for your help. GregF
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Andy 566
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Nov-27-2007 13:57 |
10723 |
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The previous owners set down tile on what looks to be 1 1/2 inches to 2 inches of concret or dry pack with wire mesh. I would like to replace the tiles. Do I need to rip it all out or can I take out the tiles and re-tile? I can raise the flor any higher than it already is.
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Jason
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Nov-26-2007 22:48 |
10722 |
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I found a ceramic tile that is 4x8 and looks just like a brick paver; it even has a rough texture. It is the same thickness as standared tile. It does not have to be sealed and it is laid just like regular tile. The product is from Daltile and called Union Square (court yard red). Any thoughts about this product? And is Daltile the only company that offers this product? It is 3.39 per sq ft....
I was told (by a tile store) that I can lay me new tile over an existing laminate floor. They said that all I had to do was purchase a cleaner for the existing laminate. No problem if I have to get the laminate up! I personally would feel more comfortable putting the tile directly on the concrete. Thoughts?
Thank you Jason Southern Louisiana
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joyce
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Nov-26-2007 19:14 |
10721 |
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can i install ceramic tile without removing toilet
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KKLaw
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Nov-26-2007 17:03 |
10720 |
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Hi tileman,
I wanted to stain my grout joints in my shower walls using Ceramaseal grout stain. However, I have a row of stone trim pieces on the wall that I would like to seal using grout sealant so that they won't get stained using the grout stain. I was using Miracle grout sealant to seal the stone pieces this morning and because of the gravity, some of the grout sealant got bleeded over to the adjacent vertical grout joints in the procelain tiles. The bleed-over area is not large, maybe a 1/4 inches or so. I therefore wonder what sealant removal I can use to remove the bleed-over sealant before I can stain the grout joints, because I am concerned that the oil based grout stain would not stick to those areas that have little bleed-over sealant.
Thanks,
K.K. Law
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stitchesinthyme
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Nov-26-2007 15:51 |
10719 |
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How do I mount a handycap bar onto the tile wall of my tub/shower?
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NJDOITYOURSELF
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Nov-26-2007 14:19 |
10718 |
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I need to install a new kitchen cabinet where an existing cabinet was installed. I need to notch a 3/16 line in the end of a tile where the new cabinet hits the backspalsh. Any manual tools that you can reccomend to cut this small notch so I can hang the cabinet? I thought of using a chisel but was afraid to break the installed tiles.
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Virgo
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Nov-26-2007 13:28 |
10717 |
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replace broken tile
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gail
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Nov-26-2007 11:49 |
10716 |
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what can i mix my wall tile mortor with ?????
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trobb628
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Nov-26-2007 11:46 |
10715 |
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I would like to change the color of my tile, I have porcelain beige, can I stain it to a darker color?
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frenchman
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Nov-25-2007 21:02 |
10714 |
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I am looking at redoing a kitchen countertop in a 14-yr old house with a laminate kitchen countertop. Is it possible to place ceramic tile over the laminate? Is it possible to (1) remove the laminate from the countertop (by heating the laminate to loosen the underlying glue??), (2) remove remaining laminate glue, (3) cover the underlying plywood with thinset, & place ceramic tile directly?? Or would it be better to place a cement underlayment on the plywood before placing thinset & the tile?
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Dulcy
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Nov-25-2007 15:39 |
10713 |
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We recently remodeled a bathroom including a new tile floor. The tile, black with some red and other colors spiraled throughout, looks dull. I'm thinking that the workers didn't clean all of the grout off. I've been using Kaboom tile cleaner, but the floor tile looks dull compared to the same tile in the shower. Should I use cheesecloth on it? Thanks!
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Munson
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Nov-25-2007 14:58 |
10712 |
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We are installing Porcelain tile over a concrete sub floor which now has a comercial grade, glazed epoxy floor on it. We tested the bond of a tile using basic quality latex modified thin set without any kind of floor prep, after a few days of drying time, we were able to break the bond easily as expected though we were hopeful. We have some test ideas; trying again after scoring the suface with heavy grit, using a higher grade modified thin set, applying an embossing leveler grade liquid underlayment or self leveler prior to setting. We do not own heavy equipment like a shot blaster, just scrapers and an edger/sander. Any suggestions to save us a lot of testing time? Thank you.
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Dear MUNSON:
Yes, the first thing is to contact the thinset manufacturer and let them tell you what they have that has already been tested. In some epoxy flooring, the only thing that will give sufficient bonding strength is an epoxy mortar. Gerald Sloan NTCA
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matt
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Nov-25-2007 13:51 |
10711 |
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I removed a three piece fiberglass tub surround. There is green board underneath. The green paper is 75% intact. The green board is flat and level. Rather than removing the green board and replacing it with cement board, I would like to paint the defects in the green board with Redgard and the apply aqua bar paper to the green board and then apply 1/2 in. cement board followed by tile. I know this will leave the tile quit proud, but I was planning to cap it off with quarter round tiles. Does this seem like a good approach? Anything you would or would not do?
please help
thank you
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Dear MATT:
This is done often without any recorded problems but this application is not a method that can be found in the TCNA handbook. Gerald Sloan NTCA
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Rob
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Nov-25-2007 00:45 |
10710 |
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Hello Tileman, I'd like to use 12x12 granite tile behind my stove. It will go from the counter to the ceiling. The area being covered is 3' wide and ~5' high. Since I'm not tiling from the floor up, but needing to start in the middle of the wall, I'm trying to determine where's the best place to begin this vertical run. Should I start at the bottom with a support strip installed and work my way towrads the ceiling, or, do I start at the ceiling and work down? Its important that I have the full 12x12 tile at the course that meets the ceiling. Thanks!!!
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Dear ROB:
It is very important to do a layout first and either snap chalk lines on the area to be tiled or by using a strait edge and a level or a lazer which can be purchased with both a self leveling and a self plumbing attachment that will help with layout. You should start at the bottom of the wall installing and work your way up. Gerald Sloan NTCA
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tilekid
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Nov-24-2007 23:18 |
10709 |
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Hi all! I would like to know if any special adhesive should be used other than or added to thinset for ceiling tile above a (glass enclosed) shower?
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Dear TILEKID:
It depends on what the tile is and what the manufacturer recommends for their product. With most tile it is not necessary to use additives in your thinset but you may want to check with the thinset manufacturer and the tile manufacturer for their product installation recommendations. Gerald Sloan NTCA
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Danny
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Nov-24-2007 21:57 |
10708 |
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I just installed a Granite tile floor in my bathroom, and the thinset is showing through the top of the tile, some seems to have gone away. Will this go away as it dries?.
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Dear DANNY:
What you are seeing is probably moisture that is trying to escape from the thinset mortar. It can take up to 21 days in some applications. Give it a little time and it should clear up. Gerald Sloan NTCA
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JR
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Nov-24-2007 21:37 |
10707 |
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I had a professional install porcelain tile in our foyer. The tiles have had grout cracks for years and the tiles sounded loose. I decided to repair the grout but found many tles just lifted clean from the thinset. The more I removed I found my small repair is looking like a full replacment. I like the tile and would like to know what steps I need to follow to replace it. The thinset is adhered firmly to the concrete backer board. The tile has no adherence to the thinset. I found some porcelain designed mortar but this looks like a complete demo job to use it properly. Can the existing thinset be removed from the concrete backer board? Is it easier to demo the backer board and completely start over? Why did the porcelain not adhere to the thinset? Is there and adhesive to use to reseat the porcelain on the existing thinset that will last? I need to know a recommended direction to take to fix the problem correctly.
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Dear JR:
It would be best to remove all the old installation and redo all of the work from the sub floor up if it is at all possible but there are some really good thinsets available that can be used over old existing thinset. Most all thinset manufacturers offer these thinsets. A word of caution when installing the new tile, make sure there are expansion joints all the way around the perimeter of the installation and every 20 to 25 lf the area is that big. Lack of movement accommodation is one of the primary causes of tile to thinset bond shear. Gerald Sloan NTCA
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debtekks
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Nov-24-2007 21:09 |
10706 |
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can i tile under a round prefab shower
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Dear DEBTEKKS:
You may want to purchase a TCNA hand book to see all the methods that are available and/or look into some of the products that are available on this site under the shower and bath section of materials. Go to www.tileusa.com to purchase the hand book from the Tile Council of North America www.tileusa.com
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ml
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Nov-24-2007 14:13 |
10705 |
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I am trying to find more tile to repair and add on to my current tile. It is several years since the original ceramic flooring was put down. It is by International American Ceramics, Inc. the color is Sable and the part number is 336855 and 12"x12". Is this still available? Or what do you suggest be my best option. Thanks.
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Dear ML:
Sorry I can't help you with this other than you may want to check with your local tile dealer to help you with this. Gerald Sloan NTCA
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wllm
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Nov-24-2007 11:33 |
10704 |
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can you install wood flooring over tile
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Dear WLLM:
I suppose so but this site is dedicated to the installation of tile and not any wood products. You may want to ask the professionals in the wood flooring industries. Gerald Sloan NTCA
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kimbo
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Nov-21-2007 17:34 |
10703 |
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we have about 11 sq ft in front and around a fireplace that is ceramic tile. It would damage the adjacent floor to tear it out so I wanted to go over the top with 6" square ceramic-it would also bring the floor to the same height as the wood surrounding. If the ceramic was sanded to rough the surface what adhesive would you recommend for the bonding? Is thers anything in tube or tubs? Thanks!
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Dear KIMBO:
You need to use a portland cement based thinset that meets or exceeds the ANSI 118.4 requirements to get a sufficient bond and yes, I would rough up the surface of the old tile first and clean it throughly. Gerald Sloan NTCA
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social1212
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Nov-21-2007 08:58 |
10702 |
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I have a new ceramic tile in my home, I am now noticing chips or pits in some of the tile which make it appear dirty. I have tried to clean it it but it does not change the color. What can I do to repair it without removing the tiles, more an more are showing up with these liitle pits or chips I guess
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Dear SOCIAL1212:
Look at answer on 10689
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Jennie
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Nov-21-2007 00:44 |
10701 |
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Hello, I have searched through your archives and have not been successful in locating an answer. My husband and I are remodelling the bathrom in our 1960's home. The walls were done in porcelain tile. When we used a chisel and hammer to remove the old tiles we found that they were originally glued onto a 1/4" plaster that sits on top of drywall. Unfortunately, when we removed the tiles we found that the plaster was flaking off to the paper backing of the drywall. Do you have any suggestions on how to better remove these old tiles and also, is our only option for the part we have already removed to replace the drywall entirely? Your help is greatly appreciated. Thank You, Jennie
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Dear JENNIE:
You will need to remove all of the tile, plaster, and drywall in order to start a proper new installation. There are several methods in the TCNA hand book to install the new wall tile and many manufacturers that make products to do this with. You may want to purchase the TCNA ( Tile Council of North America) hand book to see the different methods available. Go to www.tileusa.com Gerald Sloan NTCA
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